How do I install an 0865 Wall Hydrant?

NOTICE:
Failure to follow the instructions may result in property damage or damage to the product.
Manufacturer will have no responsibility for any damages caused by the failure to follow the instructions.

Before getting started, it is extremely important to make sure you have an appropriate length of wall hydrant for your wall thickness. The inlet connection MUST extend through the wall and any insulation so that the connection is inside the warm space at a position that is easily accessible to make the water line connection. Uneven wall surfaces may require an additional wedge to ensure a sufficient angle.

Available in lengths 4” to 24”.

A. Make sure you have appropriate fittings to make connection to supply line. Make sure the hydrant inlet size matches the existing water supply lines.

B. Installer - For PEX Connections - Crimp PEX connection is compatible with PEX A, B & C PEX Copper Crimp Ring or Stainless Steel Pinch Clamp.

See Knowledge Base articles on How to Make a Copper Crimp Ring PEX Connection, How to Make a Stainless Steel Pinch Clamp PEX Connection and Making NPT Connections.

How To Install

1. To find a suitable location, check to make sure wires, plumbing, etc. will not be hit.

2.Bore a hole through the foundation wall or the floor joist band according to inlet diameter and insert the wall hydrant from the outside. Make sure the hole is drilled on a 5° upward angle to ensure proper drainage. For 1/2” MPT and PEX you will need to drill a 1-1/8” hole. For a 3/4” MPT connection, you will need to drill a 1-1/4” hole.

3. Position the wall hydrant so that the outside spout is pointed down. To check spout position from inside the building, note that when the mark (TOP) on the connector tip faces up, the outside spout is down.

4. Position the wedge spacer between the hydrant flange and the wall with thick side up to form the downward angle. Hose end must be installed sufficiently lower than inlet to allow proper drainage. Failure to have proper drainage will result in valve freezing and bursting.

5. Secure wall hydrant flange with two #8 or #10 wood screws, or with the appropriate masonry hardware.

6. Make the inlet connection to your supply line on inside of wall. TIP: It is best practice to install a ball valve in the supply line before the wall hydrant. This allows for replacement of the hydrant without having to turn off the main water supply.

THREADED - Use thread seal tape or pipe joint compound.

PEX - Secure PEX pipe using copper PEX rings or stainless steel pinch clamps.

SOLDER - You must remove valve stem assembly to prevent damage to the seals.

a) Remove hand wheel.

b) Using a 7/8” wrench, remove packing nut by turning counter-clockwise.

c) Use handwheel to remove valve stem assembly by turning counter-clockwise.

7. Seal the gap between the wall hydrant tube and the hole with insulation, if using spray foam fill the bottom side first to ensure the tube retains it’s 5° angle. This will force the inlet end to the top of the hole, letting the water drain properly.

IMPORTANT - TIPS FOR A LONG LIFE

1. Maintain a secure connection to the wall so the wall hydrant does not shift or get damaged due to pulling on the hose.

2. Close hydrant and remove hose to fully drain water before first frost. Trapped water WILL freeze and expand, potentially bursting hydrant tube resulting in water damage. Failure to do so voids warranty and is the homeowners responsibility.

3. The ensure the hydrant is able to withstand and operate in freezing temperatures, it is critical that the valve seat is inside the heated building, and extended past the insulation by 3”. If the heat is temporarily shut down for a length of time that would allow freezing to take place, all water lines should be drained.

4. The hydrant closes at the inlet end of the wall hydrant. You will notice it will drip for a few seconds after being closed. This shows the hydrant is draining properly. Wait at least 15-30 seconds. If the dripping continues, then close the valve more tightly in small increments until dripping ceases. Avoid excessive closing force as it can damage components in the seating area. If the dripping continues, the stem assembly may need to be replaced.

SERVICE AND REPAIR

1. Prior to performing service or replacement to the wall hydrant stem assembly, water supply to the unit must be shut off and the pressure drained from the valve.

2. Remove the handle screw, handle and name plate. Unscrew the stem packing nut and remove the two packing washers and rubber packing. Using the handle, turn counter-clockwise to unscrew the stem assembly until the threads disengage and then pull out.

3. Remove old plunger assembly by pulling it straight out from the end of the check stem. Remove old spring. Replace with new spring and plunger assembly (push the new assembly in by hand).

4. Reinsert stem assembly by sliding the valve stem assembly into the tube until it contacts the threads. Then turn the stem clockwise by hand to engage threads. The stem should turn freely, make sure to prevent cross threading. Finish tightening using handle until it stops turning. **DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN** Re-install packing nut, threading by hand to start, and tighten with wrench until snug. **NOTE: Packing nut controls handle tightness and proper function - if leaking, tighten slightly. Over-tightening makes the handle hard to turn and causes premature wear.

5. The repair kits can be replaced without removing the hydrant from the wall.